Understanding the definition of Personal 'Hands On' Instruction

In most cases when you hire a dog trainer you are hiring a Teacher and a Coach. Unless otherwise specified in your contract or your class syllabus, your are paying for a professional dog trainer to teach you not your dog.

Most people will say, “OK” without really understanding what that entails.

“If you want the results you seek

you have to perform all of the homework you are given”

Imagine singing up for a private in home course in interior design to redecorate your own home. You have chosen to pay extra to have a professional interior design instructor/teacher bring the course to you instead of you going to the classroom. This way you can receive the benefits of 'Private Classes'.

The most obvious benefits include the convenience of not having to travel to and from the classroom, being able to arrange a time more suitable to your daily schedule, and receiving personal hands on instruction. You might come up with a few other reasons, but for the most part I have found in my experience that these 3 are the most common for hiring a professional teacher/trainer/instructor.In my opinion, the confusion comes in when the students/clients misunderstand the definition of 'Personal Hands on Instruction'.

Many people are under the impression that 'Hands On' means the Instructor or Teacher is going to put together the design layout for them from beginning to end. Explaining the steps being taken while you watch, then telling you that they would like to see you do in the house by the time they see you again at your next private session.

Please let me help clarify, in my personal opinion, what you should expect when you hire a professional dog trainer for private classes. (Or group classes for that matter)

Your professional dog trainer should without a doubt perform the lesson from start to finish while explaining the hows and whys of the exercise being done. The major difference is going to be what follows. From that point your teacher/trainer should be having all family members, if at all possible, practice performing the exercises the same way you were shown the first time 'hands on' instruction was given. It is absolutely imperative that consistency is followed by everyone for you and your family to receive the results you want. Once you have performed the exercises in the same manner as your instructor with positive results, you should be given your homework.

Homework can entail more than performing training exercises throughout the day and night. It can include:

• Setting up your home in a different way to give your dog boundaries.
• Learning to use training aids like a kennel or head halter.
• Setting aside time to exercise your dog by having scheduled walks and playtime
• Reading a specific book or pieces of literature to help you understand your breed of dog better or why dogs think the way they do at certain times.
• Going on field trips to learn social skills and teaching desensitization exercises.

At the end of your course there should be a test given that you are required to pass to graduate. At Canine Nanny 911 you are given a Rally Obedience test. Also called Rally-O. Rally-O is a course set up with stations. Each station has a sign with simple instructions on what task to perform and where to go next. As with any graded course or class you would take in a school, you must pass a final exam to graduate with a diploma and proceed with advanced education.

Too many times we have all heard the words, “It didn't work” or “I did exactly what he told me to do and my dog won't do it.”

If the dog trainer was able to get the desired result when demonstrating the exercise in front of the owner during the first session, “It” isn't the dog that isn't doing its homework and getting a bad grade. Its the owner. If you want all of the results you seek, you have to perform all of the homework you are given. Not your dog, but you with your dog.

Many people who are doing what the dog trainer showed them to do are also continuing to do what the dog trainer instructed them not to do.

Whether “It” works or not is 100% up to you. You can choose to learn by implementing the techniques they have given you and making a commitment to yourself and your dog to follow through with the homework in its entirety, or you can choose to never know if your professional dog trainers style of teaching and methods will work for you or not.

Whom ever you choose to hire, make the choice ahead of time to give it your all. You owe it to your dog to be the pet parent you can be with the right guidance and effort.

*The opinion in this article is not meant to imply that all “Professional Dog Trainers” are good at teaching human students, or that they use the same style or methods of teaching. That is for another article.

Written by Mickey Saathoff, Nov. 2009

Isn't Your Dog Worth a Pretty Penny?

When checking for a topic to write on today I stumbled across a story that I was shocked to see. Not because it was surprising to hear of another dog eating something it shouldn't, but at the memory it brought back concerning an experience I remember all to well.

During my time with a moving company I had a tiny chocolate Miniature Pinscher that stayed with us in the big truck we stayed in while working. While moving a family from Texas to Florida during the summer that sweet and crazy little Min. Pin passed out while sitting still. “Scared the bee geezers out of me.” Under the impression it was heat stroke due to the high humidity, he was treated as such; even though he had been in the shade with water for less than 30 min.

After treating him for heat stroke he went back to acting normal within a few hrs. Just one more thing to convince us of his bout with the heat. 3 days later after arriving in Florida to deliver the families belongings, I took him out to play and relieve himself. Within 2 -3 min. he wobbled on his feet & sat down with his front feet splayed. When I looked at his eyes they were solid black, all pupil.

Now... being in a big truck can make things challenging when it comes to dropping a full trailer or taking it with you to find a vet or hospital, of any kind for that matter. That evening we broke the rules and took our baby to the closest emergency vet we could find, 50 miles away. Thank the gods we did. Had we not, he would have died by morning.

After 3 days at the ER for multiple kelation therapies, to remove all of the zinc that poisoned his little body, and an opened stomach to remove what was left of the penny he swallowed, without a thought, we were able to take him with us. Weak from surgery and blood transfusions I held him in my lap on a soft blanket for days. It was hard to see him so lifeless. Raising cane one day and near death the next.

$3,000 later I stared at the black 3 holed penny that had caused such a painful and costly event, wondering how in the world was I going to be able to positively keep this event from ever happening again. One solitary cent became worth so much so fast that even a stock broker would have been impressed. Alas I am not a stock broker. I am an animal parent who has accepted the responsibility of a life at any cost. Emotionally, physically, and monetarily.

I do not take coins for granted any more. No matter where they are I pick them up and think of that time when that one penny became worth so much, and I am grateful for the outcome as I put them in my penny jar. They will never add up to the worth of a life, but they won't be on the floor to eat either.

Inside the ASPCA ER: Dog Ingests Toxic Pennies and Survives

On September 29, when Keiver Guacane of Manhattan brought his five-month-old Cockapoo, Gordo, to ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital, his beloved pup was in dire straits. The fuzzy, light-brown pooch was in critical condition, suffering from severe anemia and dangerously low blood pressure. ASPCA veterinarian Dr. Geruza Paiva examined Gordo, and immediately suspected the cause of the pup’s distress. “She was worried he may have eaten coins because he had hemolytic anemia—anemia due to red blood cell rupture—which can be caused by zinc toxicity from eating pennies,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine at the ASPCA. “Dr. Paiva took an x-ray and saw the coins in his stomach.”

Pennies minted after 1982 contain a zinc core surrounded by copper and are the only U.S. coins in circulation that pose a toxicity hazard to pets. Unfortunately, these toxic, late-model pennies are commonly ingested by our furry friends. The stomach provides an exceptionally acidic environment and aids in the rapid distribution of zinc into the blood stream, which can cause life-threatening anemia and kidney failure.

Luckily, Gordo was in good hands. He immediately received a blood transfusion, and then ASPCA veterinarians passed an endoscope (fiber optic technology attached to a tiny camera) through the dog’s mouth, down his esophagus and into the GI tract to locate the pennies and retrieve them with a long, grabbing instrument. The non-invasive procedure was a success, but the evidence was startling. The handful of retrieved coins included several gnarly, partially decomposed pennies and others that appeared almost new.

“If you look at the pennies we took out, the pure copper ones from before 1982 are perfect, intact and shiny,” reports Dr. Murray. “The newer, zinc ones are all eaten away.”

Of course, this interesting disparity in coin metals is probably of little consolation to mischievous little Gordo. His pet parent, too, was just relieved to see his furry friend recover well, and no doubt will forevermore watch what Gordo eats!

As always, if you suspect your pet has ingested pennies or any other toxic item, please contact your veterinarian immediately or call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center hotline at (888) 426-4435.

Gastric Retention of Zinc-based Pennies: Radiographic Appearance and Hazards

PURPOSE: To determine the radiographic appearance and features of corrosion in U.S. coins exposed to gastric acid.

MATERIALS AND METHODS: Six U.S. copper-based pre-1982 pennies, 12 zinc-based post-1982 pennies, a quarter, a nickel, and a dime were exposed to postprandial concentrations of gastric acid (0.15N HCl) for 7 days, and radiographs were obtained daily. Half the zinc-based coins were scraped to disrupt their copper coating. Coins were weighed at the start and completion of the study.

RESULTS: Post-1982 zinc-based pennies developed radiolucent corrosive changes within 24 hours. Erosions on the coins became more apparent over time. Frank holes were present on day 2. The weights of these coins decreased 5%–8% during the study. Pre-1982 copper pennies and “silver-colored” coins showed no change on radiographs over 7 days.

CONCLUSION: Unexpected radiolucent corrosions may develop in post-1982 zinc alloy pennies when retained in the stomach. Coins have long been considered innocuous foreign bodies in the gastrointestinal tracts of children. However, because of the potential for ulceration and zinc-related morbidity, closer clinical and radiographic observation is warranted. Coins with scalloped edges or holes should be endoscopically removed, as they have likely been retained longer than 1 or 2 days. 

Oh please, there isn’t enough chocolate in there to hurt.

"Its just a sliver of French Silk. There can’t be enough chocolate in there to hurt anything."

While waiting for a friend at a restaurant, a man was at the cashier picking up a Chocolate French Silk pie to take home. As the cashier was bagging his pie and ringing him up he wanted to let her know that his dog liked their French Silk pie as much as he did. Then acknowledging that his statement probably wasn’t seen as a good idea by some, he also felt the need to let it be known that he only gave him a “Little Sliver” from each pie he brought home.

Hmm, I wonder how often he those pies home?

My initial desire was to approach the man and make him aware of how lucky his dog had been. Lucky not to have had any noticeably negative reactions to the chocolate in that “little sliver” from each pie. That doesn’t count all of the other wonderful tasty ingredients common to many human daily diets. (White Sugar, Flour, Butter, Cream) Ingredients that many of us try diligently to keep to a minimum in our family animals diets. For most of us it is our hope to keep our animal family members and friends with us as for as long as we may be blessed with.

Thankfully instead of following my old instincts of blurting before I thought, I chose to be aware. Aware that no matter what or how I might have said something to this gentleman it would have landed on defending and deaf ears. He made it quite evident that he already knew it wasn’t a good idea when he followed up that he only gave him a “little sliver”.

There are many reasons the statement from this mans lips and so many others, leave me shaking my head and asking myself,
“How can so many people not understand how important the responsibility is that we take upon ourselves when we take an animal into not only our homes but our lives?”

(Cont. Below Slide Cast)

Before I trail off to another topic lets get back to the poison.

Poison. Sounds dramatic and panicky. To live in fear would be a tragedy. To live in and inflict blind stupidity upon others you have a responsibility to is just as big a tragedy in my eyes.

I can not count how many times I have heard the statement, “We give it to them all the time and they are fine.” Only to hear the same people say, “I can’t believe after all this time of being ok this time made them sick enough to need medical attention.”

Or to hear someone else say, “I don’t give them enough to worry about.”  Until the one time comes that continually receiving all of those small amounts finally took its toll.

People look, what we do to our own bodies is our business. But when it comes to our non-human companions that depend on us, we have a responsibility to quit kidding ourselves into believing that its ok to feed them junk and more than is healthy. Much less things that are knowingly poison to them. It breaks my heart every time a companion animal acquires Diabetes or Toxicity because of a humans irresponsible love. Living with the dilusion that this wrong doing is ok, only to make themselves happy at the cost of a very special other. Not to mention what happens when the responsible person now decides they can not take care of the companion they chose to make sick due to finance.

Love your babies the way they see love and you will have them in your life for as long as you are blessed.

To Bed or Not to Bed is That Really a Question?

While researching the topic of whether other professional and non-professional pet owners felt it was a good or bad idea to let our dogs (aka family/friends/fur kids) share our bed space with us or not. And what some of the most common issues seem to be posted by people who let their dogs sleep on their beds now. Along with stories I have heard from my own clients. I was lucky enough to run across a website called Webvet.com. Out of all of the articles I have read in the last week written by trainers, with and without all of the impressive abbreviated titles like cnc and others. Webvet.com had what I consider to be a few of the best. Personally I don't believe or agree that there is a simple canned answer, if you will, for every situation. Many trainers will take advantage of your ignorance on the subject to make themselves all knowing and give you a straight forward, cut and dry answer. We are talking about thinking, feeling beings. Are we not? How could there possibly be a straight yes or no answer for this question? 2 separate species that are still to this day trying to find a way to efficiently communicate with each other. Much like man and woman. Wow, now that is scary, lol. But none the less very true. Just when someone believes they have the perfect answer someone else comes along to argue the point with proof. The only real proof in my opinion is that each and every situation, though similar, is different. You and your family are not the same as the other families on the block. You each have a special situation and should be treated as such. Here is my own special family situation; I personally have 3 dogs of my own. They are my fur kids. And I love them with all my heart. A female Great Dane named Mona, a male German Rottweiler named Tatonka, and a female Golden Retriever/Rottweiler mix named Nakona. Each of them came into my family in the order they have been named. And each one of them have their own breed traits and personalities. Mona can be very territorial. And when I have allowed her to sleep in her own corner at the bottom of my bed for just 2 nights in a row, she always becomes more territorial with Nakona. (the youngest and a female). As soon as I take her bed privileges away from her, her whole demeanor changes. Tatonka although not overly territorial, becomes very challenging with me over who the decision maker is in the house. When I give him a simple out/sit/off command he starts to hesitate on whether he has to listen to me anymore. He doesn't just ignore me, he looks me at without moving anything but his eyes. As funny as this can be sometimes, it isn't good. But low and behold, limit his bed time with me to only once or twice a wk when I lay down in the afternoon and vua' la I have my wonderfully obedient boy back. Then there is my sweet Nakona. Not only the youngest and last of the group to come into the family, but also the only one of the 3 that has no interest in climbing the leadership ladder anywhere in my pack. Please do not misunderstand. She is not bullied by the others in any way. She is happy in the her place in the family or pack structure. She is allowed to sleep with me on the bed every night. Many nights she will get off the bed in the middle of the night and sleep on the floor. Now that I have my king size bed, she moves to the doggy sheet at the bottom corner of my bed after I have fallen asleep. Sleeping on the bed with me every night has not affected her behavior with me or the other dogs. So she is allowed to join me on the bed. If her actions change then so will her privileges. Can you see why I absolutely do not believe in all or nothing? I hope that you enjoy the articles at WebVet.com that I have included below.

While researching the topic of whether other professional and non-professional pet owners felt it was a good or bad idea to let our dogs (aka family/friends/fur kids) share our bed space with us or not. And what some of the most common issues seem to be posted by people who let their dogs sleep on their beds now. Along with stories I have heard from my own clients. I was lucky enough to run across a website called Webvet.com. Out of all of the articles I have read in the last week written by trainers, with and without all of the impressive abbreviated titles like cnc and others. Webvet.com had what I consider to be a few of the best.

Personally I don't believe or agree that there is a simple canned answer, if you will, for every situation. Many trainers will take advantage of your ignorance on the subject to make themselves all knowing and give you a straight forward, cut and dry answer. We are talking about thinking, feeling beings. Are we not? How could there possibly be a straight yes or no answer for this question? 2 separate species that are still to this day trying to find a way to efficiently communicate with each other. Much like man and woman. Wow, now that is scary, lol. But none the less very true. Just when someone believes they have the perfect answer someone else comes along to argue the point with proof. The only real proof in my opinion is that each and every situation, though similar, is different. You and your family are not the same as the other families on the block. You each have a special situation and should be treated as such.

Here is my own special family situation;

I personally have 3 dogs of my own. They are my fur kids. And I love them with all my heart.

A female Great Dane named Mona, a male German Rottweiler named Tatonka, and a female Golden Retriever/Rottweiler mix named Nakona.

Each of them came into my family in the order they have been named. And each one of them have their own breed traits and personalities.

Mona can be very territorial. And when I have allowed her to sleep in her own corner at the bottom of my bed for just 2 nights in a row, she always becomes more territorial with Nakona. (the youngest and a female). As soon as I take her bed privileges away from her, her whole demeanor changes.

Tatonka although not overly territorial, becomes very challenging with me over who the decision maker is in the house. When I give him a simple out/sit/off command he starts to hesitate on whether he has to listen to me anymore. He doesn't just ignore me, he looks me at without moving anything but his eyes. As funny as this can be sometimes, it isn't good. But low and behold, limit his bed time with me to only once or twice a wk when I lay down in the afternoon and vua' la I have my wonderfully obedient boy back.

Then there is my sweet Nakona. Not only the youngest and last of the group to come into the family, but also the only one of the 3 that has no interest in climbing the leadership ladder anywhere in my pack. Please do not misunderstand. She is not bullied by the others in any way. She is happy in the her place in the family or pack structure.

She is allowed to sleep with me on the bed every night. Many nights she will get off the bed in the middle of the night and sleep on the floor. Now that I have my king size bed, she moves to the doggy sheet at the bottom corner of my bed after I have fallen asleep. Sleeping on the bed with me every night has not affected her behavior with me or the other dogs. So she is allowed to join me on the bed. If her actions change then so will her privileges.

Can you see why I absolutely do not believe in all or nothing?

I hope that you enjoy the articles at WebVet.com that I have included below.

What to consider before letting your pet sleep on your bed

By Erik J. Martin for WebVet

All content on WebVet is reviewed annually by Vets to guarantee its timeliness and accuracy.

Article last reviewed - 10/14/2009

Many dogs exhibit some form of assertive/aggressive behavior throughout their lifetime. There are many causes of aggression, stemming from lack of littermate socialization, limited dog/dog interaction, and too much freedom as they mature. Dogs are pack animals and need to be socialized regularly with other balanced, healthy dogs.

Dogs, by instinct want to follow a leader, so routine and repetitious activities must be carried out for your dog daily. These activities must ALWAYS show your dog that you are the pack leader, which instills a calm/submissive state of mind for your dog. By following the below tips on preventing dog aggression, you may just be invited back to your next neighborhood block party:

1. Food/toy possession. From the moment you bring your new puppy home, make it clear that NO food or toy is his! I suggest to my customers to put their face and hands in the puppy’s food bowl to ensure that the dog learns that food is social and not possessive. I also suggest a “give/take” exercise with bones and chew toys. Give your dog a bone and take it away immediately. After this routine, give your dog the bone, let him chew on it for 5 minutes, and then take it back again. This will teach your dog that NOTHING is his and all food/toys are given and owned by humans.

2. Human first, dog second. How many times have you seen a dog on a walk and dragging its owner down the street? I call this the “ski boat” walk. The dog is the boat and the human is the skier! Not all dogs will take an assertive/aggressive stance, but any herding/sporting/working dog will have a much better chance of becoming “Alpha” if not shown the proper pack order sequence. Be sure to “lead” your dog on the walk, out your door, and anytime that you have forward motion. This will teach your dog to follow and not lead. Leave the skiing for your summer vacation.

3. Socialize your puppy from a young age. Many vets will recommend quarantining your puppy until 16 weeks of age, or upon completion of ALL necessary vaccines, including rabies. The first year of a dog’s life is crucial for socializing to build calm relations with other dogs and humans. So, when socialized with HEALTHY and BALANCED dogs, your dog will have a greater chance of less assertive/aggressive tendencies as he ages. Form a “puppy social hour” at your home with friends, family, and neighbors dogs. Dogs are pack animals and will form solid social bonds with 4-8 other balanced dogs. Dog parks are a good way to socialize your dog ONLY if it’s a clean park with other healthy, well-trained, balanced dogs.

4. Finally – Make your dog work for everything. No free lunch is the point here! From a Chihuahua to a Great Dane, make your dog work for its food and treats. Have your dog sit before meals, at the curb before crossing the street, and before exiting your home. This routine will always have your dog looking to YOU for the next command, therefore creating a dog follower, human pack leader relationship.

With the proper mixture of command work, nutrition, and exercise, your dog will experience the utmost state of mind and existence. By taking a “human first” approach with your dog, it will result in a natural “follower” instinct from your dog. Be a consistent and directive leader, and your dog will be calling you boss in no time.